Rome looks like any other European city as the taxi turns
off the motorway and trundles through the outskirts. The usual mix of apartment blocks rubbing
cheeks with suburban low-rise cubes is like so many others. Everywhere there are signs of under-investment:
another victim of La Crisis, now six years old and with no signs of improvement
– worse if anything. Then out of the
corner of my eye, high above, something catches the suns rays.
Saturday 30 August 2014
Tuesday 26 August 2014
Ponsa
We leave Ischia behind as we sail north towards Rome, a
large swell running from the south, pushing us on our way. We stop briefly for
lunch on the remote island of Ventotene, and swim in the deep clear water before
motoring the last twenty miles to Ponsa. From our last visit I know that a long
southerly swell creeps into all the anchorages so I head straight for the port
and anchor in the protected main harbour with twenty other yachts who have also
been here before and experienced the Ponsa roll. Once the ferries stop for the night the water
is thankfully calm and the wind dies away; a blanket of hot and humid air
settles over the boat.
Sunday 17 August 2014
Naples
The urban sprawl of Naples, and its one million inhabitants,
spreads across the horizon, from the green slopes of Vesuvius down to the bay
of Naples. We are in the middle of the city where our friend and hotelier,
Paolo, has secured us a berth at the marina in Santa Lucia, positioned under
the battlements of Castel dell’Ovo which takes its name from the the legend
that it was built over an egg placed here by Virgil in Roman times: it is
believed that if the egg breaks, Naples will fall.
Thursday 14 August 2014
Amalfi Coast
We are on the Costiera Amalfatana, just outside Salerno,
working our way north along the Italian coast towards Naples and then onto
Rome. We are berthed in Marina d’Arechi,
a brand new marina that isn’t even on my chart, where we spend the day cleaning
Stromboli ash from the decks. Hertz
delivers a car which Fatty dubs a Fiat Ugly, and we set off in the hot
afternoon sun, air conditioning on full, through Salerno and onto the coast
road that runs along the south of the Amalfi peninsula. Our destination is
Ravello a small town up in the hills above Amalfi, but first, that crazy coast
road.
Saturday 9 August 2014
Stromboli Erupts
Tuesday 5 August 2014
Cefalu
Cefalu is a medieval town on the north coast of Sicily, perched on a rocky promontory under the dramatic backdrop of La Rocca, a huge rock that towers over the town. It is so picture-perfect that it was used as the setting for the famous Sicilian film, Cinema Paradiso, and tourists from all over Sicily flock to Cefalu to stroll the narrow cobbled streets. We anchor in milky blue water outside the small marina and wait for the wind to back to the west to take us to the Aeolian Islands. It also give me a chance to catch up on admin after a frustrating few days in Palermo where we suffered more gear failure than in our entire three years afloat.
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